1876 TOKYO

This map was originally published in Clara's Diary: An American Girl in Meiji Japan (Kodansha, 1979). Clara Whitney's parents were missionaries and educators who moved to Tokyo in 1875; her diaries give a unique view of Japan as it changed in the early years of the Meiji era.

I have scanned the map and cleaned up the resulting image, re-oriented it to portrait format with north at the top, changed its black-and-white to color, and added an image map with explanatory mouseovers as well as symbols for common landmarks. As on most maps, the manji denotes a Buddhist temple and the torii a Shinto shrine. Government offices are indicated by and schools by .

Kenshin's neighborhood is probably somewhere in the area bounded by Ueno Park, the Sensouji temple, the Sumida, and the Kanda. Since Sano's longhouse is spoken of as being on the edge of town, I picture it as actually being off the map to the northeast, in or near present-day San'ya. And though canon gives no evidence, I think Katsu lived a little farther west, toward Yushima Tenjin and the Imperial (later Tokyo) University campus.

YOSHIWARA - The best known of Tokyo's pleasure districts, it survived in declining splendor until the late 1950s. SENSOUJI - the temple of Kannon is still the heart of Asakusa. SEIYOUKEN - Originally a branch of one of the first Western hotels in Tokyo, this restaurant is still operating. YUSHIMA TENJIN - Hopeful students come to this shrine, dedicated to deified scholar Sugawara no Michizane, to pray for success in examinations. KAGA YASHIKI - in 1876 this was the estate of the powerful Maeda family. Today it's part of Tokyo University. KAISEI GAKKOU - an educational institution specializing in Western subjects, originally an offic established by the shoguns in 1811 to translate Dutch books. In 1877 it was merged with a medical faculty and became the nucleus of Tokyo University. Fields of study included Dutch, English, French, German, Russian, astronomy, geography, physics, chemistry, production methods, and printing. SHIHAN GAKKOU - 'Normal School' (an old name for an institution that trained teachers). KANDA SHRINE - one of Tokyo's best known Shinto shrines, it alternates its popular matsuri with that of Hie Shrine. YASUKUNI SHRINE - built to honor those who died fighting to overthrow the Shogunate, it became a memorial to all of Japan's war dead. In the Meiji era it was not controversial; today it is the symbol of unresolved issues from World War II. KOBU DAIGAKKOU - Imperial College of Engineering. Founded in 1871 and renamed in 1877, it offered six-year courses in civil engineering, mechanics, telegraphy, architecture, chemistry, metallurgy and mining. Today the University of Tokyo School of Engineering. KAITAKUSHI - a government ministry in charge of developing Hokkaido. ICHIGAYA MILITARY ACADEMY - The Imperial Military Academy trained cadets here from the beginning of the Meiji era until it moved to Zama in 1937. AKASAKA DETACHED PALACE - today used as a state guest house. AOYAMA CEMETERY - The largest cemetery in Tokyo, known for its avenue of cherry trees. Many notable people, especially artists and writers, are buried here. HIKAWA SHRINE - A shrine built by the 8th shogun, Tokugawa Yoshimune. Still standing, and one of the tourist attractions of the Akasaka-Roppongi area. It's apparently a popular place to celebrate Shinto festivals like Setsubun and Shichi-go-san, and I did turn up one reference to it being a place people go to pray for success in business. (It's rather hard to find information on the Web about this shrine; a Google search turns up either a better-known shrine in Saitama, or a lot of sites on Sailor Moon.) HIE SHRINE - originally built in 1471 to insure divine protection for Edo Castle, this shrine is dedicated to O-Yamakui, the god of Mt. Hiei in Kyoto. It holds a well-known matsuri every other year in mid-June. SENGAKUJI - this Buddhist temple is best known as the resting place of the 47 Ronin. HAMAGOTEN - Another detached palace, sometimes known as the 'summer palace,' especially known for its wetland gardens. Today an important cultural asset. SEIYOUKEN - one of the earliest Western-style hotels in Tokyo. Its original building, overlooking Tokyo Bay, was destroyed in the 1923 Kanto Earthquake. A branch restaurant still operates in Ueno Park. SHOHOU KOSHUJOU - Institute for Business Training, privately founded in 1875. Survives today as part of Hitotsubashi University. U.S. LEGATION - In Requiem for the Ishin Shishi, the foreign ambassadors were attacked at a building with crossed American and Japanese flags on the gateposts. I think this is it. NIHONBASHI - The center of the 'Japan Bridge' was the zero point from which all distances from the capital were measured. This is where Kenshin made his decision to go to Kyoto (though the bridge shown is the present structure, actually not built until 1911). MARUNOUCHI - Originally home to government offices, many of which were burned out during the Restoration. In 1890 the land was sold to Mitsubishi and became the heart of Tokyo's financial district. SHINBASHI STATION - the first railway station in Tokyo, it marked the terminus of a line connecting the capital with Yokohama. TSUKUJI - Once Tokyo was opened to foreign residents, most lived here, unless they were employed by the Japanese government. GINZA - Following a fire in 1872, Ginza was rebuilt in brick. The buildings were unattractive, poorly ventilated, and damp; people came to look (and artists to make prints) but no one wanted to rent them, and none have survived. KATSU AWA - Better known as Katsu Kaishuu. By heredity a Tokugawa retainer, at various times he held office in the naval department, where he was outspoken about the need for modernization. As commander of Tokugawa forces at the end of the Shogun's reign, he helped ensure peaceful transfer of power to the new imperial government. He continued to hold public office until the 1870s. TOKUGAWA IESATO - heir of the last Shogun, Yoshinobu.